InsulationBlown-In Insulation Calculator

Blown-In Insulation Calculator

How many bags of blown-in insulation do I need? Calculate cellulose, fiberglass, or mineral wool for attics, walls, and crawl spaces. Get bag count, thickness, and cost estimates.

Area Dimensions

Length (ft)

Width (ft)

Target R-Value

R-38 is common for attics in zones 4-5

Material Type

Application Area

Existing Insulation

Extra Material: 10%

Recommended: 10-15% for settling and irregular spaces

Ready to calculate

Enter your area dimensions

Last updated March 31, 2026 by our expert review team

Blown-In Material Comparison

Cellulose (Blown)

R-3.7/inch

$12/bag (25 lbs)

Fiberglass (Blown)

R-2.5/inch

$30/bag (30 lbs)

Mineral Wool (Blown)

R-3.3/inch

$35/bag (30 lbs)

Expert Contributors

H
Creator
Hawkin
Certified Cost & Estimating Professional
EG
Expert Review
Ehsan Ghazanfari
Licensed Structural Engineer

R-Value per Inch by Material

R/inch
Fiberglass (Blown)
R-2.5 /inch
Mineral Wool (Blown)
R-3.3 /inch
Cellulose (Blown)
R-3.7 /inch

Higher R-value per inch means less thickness needed to reach the same insulation level.

Pro Tips

1

Cellulose is 75% recycled newsprint and the most cost-effective blown-in option. It also provides better air sealing than fiberglass because it packs tightly into gaps and irregular spaces.

2

Rent a blower machine from Home Depot or Lowe's for free with a purchase of 20 or more bags. This saves $50 to $150 compared to renting separately.

3

For a side-by-side comparison of batt and blown insulation methods, use our attic insulation calculator to see which approach fits your attic best.

4

Seal all air leaks (plumbing, wiring, recessed lights) before blowing. Air sealing alone saves 10 to 20% on energy bills and prevents warm air from bypassing your new insulation.

5

For a cellulose-specific deep dive with settling calculations and density recommendations, try our cellulose insulation calculator.

6

Wall cavities need dense-pack technique (3.5 lbs/cu ft) to prevent settling. Standard attic blow is 1.5 lbs/cu ft. Using attic density in walls leads to voids within a few years.

How the Calculator Works

The calculator first subtracts your existing insulation R-value from your target to determine how much additional R-value you need. It then divides that number by the material's R-value per inch to calculate the required blown-in thickness. For example, going from R-19 to R-49 with cellulose (R-3.7/inch) means adding about 8.1 inches of blown material.

Next, the calculator multiplies your area by the material's coverage rate at the required thickness to determine bag count. The waste factor accounts for settling (cellulose drops 10-20% in the first year), irregular joist spacing, and material lost around obstructions like wiring and plumbing stacks. For attics, 10% waste is standard. For walls with dense-pack technique, bump it to 15%.

The DIY cost reflects material only (bags at retail pricing). The professional estimate uses $1.50 to $2.50 per square foot, which includes labor, equipment, and material. For a detailed budget breakdown by region, try our insulation cost calculator.

Formula

Additional R = Target R - Existing R

Thickness = Additional R / R per inch

Bags = Area x Coverage Rate x Thickness x (1 + Waste%)

Quick Reference

Cellulose R/inch
R-3.7
Fiberglass R/inch
R-2.5
Mineral wool R/inch
R-3.3
Cellulose settling
10-20%
Dense-pack density
3.5 lbs/cu ft
Free blower rental
20+ bags

Blown-In Insulation FAQ

How many bags for a 1,000 sq ft attic?

35 to 45 bags of cellulose to reach R-38 from a bare ceiling. That is about 10.3 inches of blown cellulose at standard attic density (1.5 lbs/cu ft).

Cellulose vs fiberglass blown-in?

Cellulose is cheaper per bag, provides better air sealing, and is made from 75% recycled paper. Fiberglass will not absorb moisture but costs roughly 2x more per bag and needs greater thickness for the same R-value.

How thick should blown-in insulation be?

R-38 needs about 10 inches of cellulose or 15 inches of fiberglass. R-49 needs 13 inches of cellulose or 20 inches of fiberglass. Always check your climate zone target.

Can I blow insulation over existing?

Yes, as long as the existing insulation is dry and mold-free. Do not compress old batts. Blow new material right on top to reach your target R-value.

How much does blown-in insulation cost?

DIY cellulose runs $0.50 to $1.00 per square foot. Professional installation costs $1.50 to $2.50 per square foot. Most big box stores offer free blower rental with a purchase of 20 or more bags.

Does blown-in insulation settle?

Cellulose settles 10 to 20% in the first year. Over-blow by 15% to compensate. Fiberglass settles less, typically 5 to 10%, making it more stable long-term.

Can I blow insulation into walls?

Yes, using dense-pack technique through 2-inch holes drilled in each stud bay. This requires professional equipment and experience to achieve the 3.5 lbs/cu ft density needed to prevent settling.

What R-value do I need?

R-38 for climate zones 2-3, R-49 for zones 4-5, and R-60 for zones 6-8 per the 2021 IECC energy code. Walls typically need R-13 to R-21 depending on zone.

Blown-In Insulation Estimates for Common Projects

Small Attic

800 sq ft, R-38, cellulose, no existing
Bags: 30 bagsCost: $360 DIYThickness: 10.3 in

A weekend project for two people. Rent the free blower and buy bags in bulk for best value.

Average Attic (Top-Off)

1,000 sq ft, R-49, cellulose, existing R-19
Bags: 27 bagsCost: $324 DIYThickness: 8.1 in

Adding over existing batts is the highest ROI insulation upgrade. Do not compress the old layer.

Large Attic

1,500 sq ft, R-60, fiberglass, no existing
Bags: 90 bagsCost: $2,700 DIYThickness: 24 in

At this volume, get a professional quote. Installed fiberglass may cost less than DIY at this scale.

Wall Cavity Retrofit

1,200 sq ft walls, R-13, cellulose, none
Bags: 16 bagsCost: $192 DIYThickness: 3.5 in

Wall cavities require dense-pack equipment. Budget $1,500 to $2,500 for professional dense-pack installation.

Blown-In Insulation Mistakes That Cost You Money

Not air sealing before insulating

Insulation slows heat transfer but does not stop air leaks. Caulk and foam every penetration (wiring, plumbing, recessed lights) before blowing. Air leaks account for 25 to 40% of energy loss.

Compressing existing batts with blown-in

Laying heavy blown-in directly on old fiberglass batts crushes them, reducing the R-value of both layers. Blow loosely on top and let the material settle naturally.

Blocking soffit vents

Install polystyrene rafter baffles in every bay before blowing insulation. Blocked vents cause moisture buildup, mold, and ice dams in cold climates.

Not accounting for settling

Cellulose settles 10 to 20% in the first year. Over-blow by at least 15% so you still hit your target R-value after settling. Fiberglass settles less (5 to 10%).

Blowing too thin

Half the recommended thickness means half the R-value and roughly half the energy savings. Measure depth with a ruler in multiple spots to verify uniform coverage.

Important Disclaimer

These estimates are for planning purposes only. Actual costs vary by location, material availability, and project complexity. Always get at least 3 local quotes. This calculator does not replace professional advice.